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My favorite is the Jim Shoe () tamale: A fat lamb and beef tamale arrives topped with pastrami, cheese, hot and sweet peppers, and a creamy house sauce.

It's based on the Jim Shoe sandwich, a strange Chicago specialty, in which gyro meat, corned beef and roast beef join an unholy alliance with mustard, gyro sauce and giardiniera.

From the exuberantly ornate dining room to the best dishes on the menu, the West Loop restaurant delights in serving up layers upon layers of style. A beet hummus kicked off a recent meal with sparks of citrus zest and dusky notes of clove, offset by the crunch of fried chickpeas and the salty tang of blue cheese.

Asked for his recommendations, the server immediately pointed to two starters: grilled octopus () and cornbread ().Kinzie St., 312-940-9900, barriochicago.com— Bill Daley Beet hummus at Beatnik kicks off the meal with sparks of citrus zest and dusky notes of clove, offset by the crunch of fried chickpeas and the salty tang of blue cheese.(Annie Grossinger / Chicago Tribune)Beatnik is a study in texture.Given the promise shown by the other dishes, pluma iberica, a roast pork dish for two, presented well but tasted fairly pedestrian.Baby sepia was well grilled and paired nicely with a silky tomato puree and bitter greens, but the accompanying corn and squid-ink polenta lacked flavor.

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